Day trip bathing travel journals to hot springs where we visited by train and bus

Kamisuwa Onsen Yamato-onsen

Kamisuwa Onsen Yamato-onsen

17-5, Kowata, Suwa City, Nagano Pref.

A bit surreal 100% hot spring flowing from the source, at the back of a narrow alley in a private house

Kamisuwa Onsen Yamato-onsen bathtub
Kamisuwa Onsen Yamato-onsen bathing room Kamisuwa Onsen Yamato-onsen hot water for washing off before bathing Kamisuwa Onsen Yamato-onsen exterior

As soon as you enter the bathing room, you can feel the smell of sulfur clearly. With a faucet that can supply the source of alkaline sulfur spring to the bathtub.

A unique and a bit surreal bath with a Showa-like atmosphere and a stainless steel bathtub. It's located at where you will definitely miss it, if you don't know it. It might be a souvenir story if you go there?

A 15-minute walk from Kamisuwa Station and a 20-minute walk to Lake Suwa. It is good to stop for a sightseeing break around Lake Suwa.

Location

Rating of access

1.0 pt(from Shinjuku)

1.5 pt(from Nagoya)

→ How to rate access

Area / Railway

Koshinetsu Region
Nagano Pref.

JR Chuo Line

onsen

Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta.Keio: 1 hr Keio Line ¥ 370
  • Takao Sta.JR: 3 hrs Chuo Line ¥ 2,640
  • Kamisuwa Sta. (Kirigamine exit) Walk: 15 min 1.2 km (0.7 mi)
  • Yamato-onsen
Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta.JR: 3 hrs 55 min Chuo Line ¥ 3,740
  • Kamisuwa Sta. (Suwako exit) KARINCHAN Bus: 5 min Shinai Junkan Soto-mawari Line ¥ 150
  • Sogo Fukushi Center Bus StopWalk: 1 min
  • Yamato-onsen
Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta.JR express: 2 hrs 20 min Azusa etc. Reserved seat¥ 5,980
  • Kamisuwa Sta. (Kirigamine exit) ALPICO Kotsu Bus: 2 min Chino Kamisuwa Shimosuwa Okaya Line ¥ 150
  • Kakumabashi Bus StopWalk: 4 min 0.3 km (0.2 mi)
  • Yamato-onsen
Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta. (New South Gate) Walk: 2 min
  • Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal (4th floor) Expressway bus: 3 hrs 02 min Suwa Okaya Line ¥ 3,500
  • Kamisuwa Sta. (Kirigamine exit) Walk: 1 min
  • Station Rent-a-car in front of
    JR Kamisuwa Sta. Bicycle rental: 6 min ¥ 500 for 2 hrs -
  • Yamato-onsen
Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta. (New South Gate) Walk: 2 min
  • Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal (4th floor) Expressway bus: 2 hrs 58 min Suwa Okaya Line ¥ 3,200
  • Akahane Bus StopWalk: 12 min 1 km (0.6 mi)
  • Yamato-onsen
Route from Nagoya
  • Nagoya Sta.JR: 3 hrs 50 min Chuo-nishi Line ¥ 3,410
  • Kamisuwa Sta.(The rest is the same as above)
Route from Nagoya
  • Nagoya Sta.JR express: 2 hrs Shinano etc. Non-reserved seat¥ 5,610
  • Shiojiri Sta.JR: 25 min Chuo Line ¥ -
  • Kamisuwa Sta.(The rest is the same as above)
Route from Nagoya
  • Nagoya Sta.Walk: 5 min
  • Meitetsu Bus Center (3rd floor) Expressway bus: 2 hrs 55 min Matsumoto Nagano Line ¥ 2,800 - ¥ 3,800
  • Naganodo Okaya Bus StopWalk: 35 min 2.6 km (1.6 mi)
  • Arayashiki Bus StopSWAN Bus: about 1 hr Uchi-mawari Line (or Soto-mawari Line) ¥ 150
  • Kamisuwa Sta.(The rest is the same as above)
Routes from Tokyo
  • Shinjuku
  • Keio
  • Takao
  • JR
  • Kamisuwa
  • Walk
  • hot spring
  • 4 hrs 15 min ¥ 3,010

  • Shinjuku
  • JR
  • Kamisuwa
  • Bus
  • hot spring
  • 4 hrs 01 min ¥ 3,890

  • Shinjuku
  • JR express
  • Kamisuwa
  • Bus
  • hot spring
  • 2 hrs 26 min ¥ 6,130

  • Shinjuku
  • Expressway bus
  • Kamisuwa
  • Bicycle rental
  • hot spring
  • 3 hrs 11 min ¥ 4,000 -

  • Shinjuku
  • Expressway bus
  • Akahane
  • Walk
  • hot spring
  • 3 hrs 12 min ¥ 3,200

Routes from Nagoya
  • Nagoya
  • JR
  • Kamisuwa
  • (The rest is the same as above)
  • 3 hrs 50 min+ ¥ 3,410+

  • Nagoya
  • JR express
  • Shiojiri
  • JR
  • Kamisuwa
  • (The rest is the same as above)
  • 2 hrs 25 min+ ¥ 5,610+

  • Nagoya
  • Expressway bus
  • Naganodo Okaya
  • Walk
  • Arayashiki
  • Bus
  • Kamisuwa
  • (The rest is the same as above)
  • about 4 hrs 35 min+ ¥ 2,950 - ¥ 3,950+

  • The price of JR Express is "Base fare" plus "Express charge". (These are determined according to the distance.) In case of JR Express on Chuo Line, "Express charge" has two types: "Reserved seat" and "Undecided seat". Both have the same charge, which do not change depending on the season. However, the price will vary depending on where you buy. (Internet < Station < Inside the car). If you have an "Undecided seat" ticket, you can sit in any vacant seat, but you have no priority. So, if someone comes who has a "Reserved seat" ticket for the seat you are sitting, you have to give up the seat to him / her.
  • Other JR Express than the above, "Express charge" has two types: Reserved seat and Non-reserved seat. Reserved seat charge adds ¥930 (during the busiest season), ¥730 (during the busy season), ¥530 (during the normal season) or ¥330 (during the off season) to Non-reserved seat charge. (For details, please refer to JR East_Ticketing and Busiest / Busy / Normal / Off season calendar.)
  • The Kamisuwa Station exits are called "Kirigamine exit" on the east side and "Suwako exit" on the west side. To go to the Suwako exit, you have to exit from the Kirigamine exit, go to the right, and cross the track with the overpass (connecting passage).
  • KARINCHAN Bus is the Suwa City Bus. They sell one-day unlimited ride ticket (¥300 for adults) on the bus.
  • ALPICO Kotsu Bus "Chino Kamisuwa Shimosuwa Okaya Line" runs on weekdays only.
  • On the Expressway Bus Suwa Okaya Line, some buses are operated in the order of Chuodo ChinoOkaya Sta. → Shimosuwa Sta. → Kamisuwa Sta. (last stop). Note that these buses don't go to Akahane Bus Stop, and that they take a lot of time to go to Kamisuwa Sta.
  • The above fares are based on cash. When using an IC card, the fares may differ slightly.
  • The above times and distances are approximate. Does not include transfering or waiting times.

How to get to Yamato-onsen

(Directions from Kamisuwa Sta.)
  1. Exit the East exit (Kirigamine exit) and turn right (Go to south on Route 20)
  2. Turn right just before the river (where the pedestrian bridge is). After passing the Yukoji intersection, go right at the Y-shaped road and go 20 m (66 ft)

bus stop: bus stop

Click the map to open Google Map

Travel journal of day trip bathing to hot spring

Characters

Nishi-san
Nishi-san
He is an orthodox hot springs lover and particular about quality of springs. He loves the hot springs flowing from the source, the hot water with a presence, and the rustic atmosphere.
Kita-san
Kita-san
He doesn't care much about quality of hot springs. He loves the open-air bath, and prefers hot springs that have visible features such as good views.

Today Nishi-san and Kita-san have come to Suwa in Shinshu. Despite famous sightseeing spots such as Lake Suwa and Suwa Taisha, Nishi-san and Kita-san head first is "Yamato-onsen". A 15-minute walk from Kamisuwa Station, they're walking down the calm and laid back street ...

Oh! This! This building looks like a communal bath?

 

Hirayu exterior, Kamisuwa Onsen

Hirayu

Ah, yeah. So this is Yamato-onsen ... Oh? It's written locals only can use.

That's true. Then, not Yamato-onsen?

It may be a little further ahead ...

Well, but there is no hot spring in the further ... oh, there is.

... Exactly, Yamato-onsen signboard. Here ...

Under the Yamato-onsen sign, there is a hideout-like suspicious tunnel.

Yamato-onsen entrance, Kamisuwa Onsen

Entrance

Excuse me, sir, is it really a good hot spring?

Yes, I've heard so.

Oh, ... I ... see ...

OK. We've come this far, so let's get in.

After confirming that there is no entrance other than here, Nishi-san and Kita-san get into this tunnel alley. After passing through the tunnel alley, they've come out to a space like a small courtyard.

"The building like a communal bath" is a communal bath called "Hirayu", that exclusively for locals.
By the way, this building has appeared in the movie "Thermae Romae 2" (2014).

Yamato-onsen exterior view from the courtyard, Kamisuwa Onsen

Exterior view from the courtyard

Where here? Someone's residence, you know ...

It looks like the men's bath is on the left and the women's bath is on the right. Where the reception ... Oh, behind.

Nishi-san and Kita-san, opening the sliding door of the men's bath. There is an undressing room, and the back is a bathing room.

Yamato-onsen bathtub, Kamisuwa Onsen

Bathtub

The frontage is narrow but deep.

Oh! The smell of sulfur is good.

What? What is this? Steel ... no, stainless steel!? Is the bathtub made of stainless steel?

Yamato-onsen hot water spout and Kakeyu, Kamisuwa Onsen

Hot water spout and Kakeyu (hot water for washing off before bathing)

Yes, I've heard so.

I've not heard it. But, A stainless steel tub in a hot spring is rare, you know. I feel a sense of discomfort ...

Exactly. But if the water is good, it'll be no problem.

Oh, ... I ... see ...

OK. We've come this far, so let's get in.

The two soak in the bathtub at once. The bathtub is a rectangle about 1 m (3.3 ft) wide and 3 m (10 ft) long.

Yamato-onsen bathtub, Kamisuwa Onsen

Bathtub

Oh, it's good hot water.

Sort of. It's a bit hot, though.

I feel the smell of sulfur and the taste are a little like sulfur. It's a typical hot spring.

So? Well, could be, but at least the stainless steel tub doesn't look like a typical hot spring ... Listen, the quaint onsen atmosphere is ...

There is a price list across the courtyard, opposite the bathing room building. Yamato-onsen price list, Kamisuwa Onsen

Oh? Is this a source faucet? Let's put it out.

Ouch! Hot!

They've just arrived in Suwa, but Nishi-san and Kita-san are enjoying the hot water immediately. There are so many hot springs in Suwa, but what their next?

(August 2017)

The bathtub has a source faucet and a tap water faucet, so that you can adjust the temperature of the hot water to some extent.

Impression & rating

A wonderful hot spring with a rich smell of sulfur. Because the hot water is good, it is much more satisfying than a usual hot spring in a tourist spot.

3.0 pt

Impression & rating

It may be good for those who can enjoy the hideout and worn-out atmosphere and the unexpectedness of a stainless steel tub, not typical hot spring.

1.0 pt

→ How to rate

The Onsen facility

Address
17-5, Kowata, Suwa City, Nagano Pref.
Phone
domestic: 0266-52-3659
international: +81-266-52-3659
Web Site
None
Bathing hours
7:00 - 22:00
Regular holiday
Wednesdays
Charge
Adults: ¥ 300 /
Elementary school students: ¥ 130 /
Infants: ¥ 70
Baths
Gender-separated indoor bath
Equipments
No shower, soap, shampoo, etc.

The hot spring data
(According to hot spring analysis report etc.)

(Survey date: Jun. 16, 2015)

Spring quality
Simple Alkaline Sulfur spring (Hypotonic Alkaline High temperature spring)
Source
3540-1, Kowata, Suwa City, Nagano Pref.
Temperature
68.9 ℃ (156.0 ℉)
[air temperature: 23 ℃ (73.4 ℉)]
Volume
Not measured (Pumping after drilling)
pH value
8.7
Total ingredients
0.737 g / kg
Perception
It is almost colorless and clear, has a sulfury, slightly salty, and slightly hydrogen sulfide odor. In addition, the emission of some accompanying gas (including methane) is recognized.

Today's Ekiben

Wild vegetables and chicken kamameshi
The appearance of Wild vegetables and chicken kamameshi The whole of Wild vegetables and chicken kamameshi

Wild vegetables and chicken kamameshi

(Purchased at Chino Station)

It is a kamameshi (rice dish cooked in a small pot) that has wild vegetables and roast chicken. The wrapping paper says, "It is a gentle-tasting kamameshi with lovingly roasted chicken, and a full of wild vegetables reminiscent of Yatsugatake." This can be said right. After all, I thought Marumasa's ekiben is delicious.

(¥ 908) (→ Marumasa website)

  • The descriptions on this page contain personal opinions and are not necessarily objective facts.
  • The information may have changed at present. In particular, the charge and price etc. has often not updated from the time of travel, so check the latest information on the official website.

Onsen List

Tohoku Region

Kanto Region

Kyushu Region

  • Fukuoka Pref.
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