Day trip bathing travel journals to hot springs where we visited by train and bus

Shimosuwa Onsen Tanganoyu

Shimosuwa Onsen Tanganoyu

3441, Yudamachi, Shimosuwa Town, Suwa District, Nagano Pref.

52 ℃ (126 ℉) in the hot water spout !? The hot water that is likely to be scalded you is the historical and famous hot spring with flowing from the source.

Shimosuwa Onsen Tanganoyu indoor bath
Shimosuwa Onsen Tanganoyu exterior Shimosuwa Onsen Tanganoyu open-air bath Suwa-taisha Shimosha Akimiya

Suwa Onsen has been regarded as a famous hot spring since ancient times so that it is ranked high in the hot spring ranking of the Edo period. However, the indoor bath is a very hot bath that stimulates the skin.

The locals visit incessantly, and you can feel the vitality of them. While leaving the atmosphere that is popular and relaxed, it has become a clean and bright bathing room by renovation.

It is very close to Suwa Taisha Akimiya. Located along the old Nakasendo, it is dotted with traditional Japanese houses and historic sites in the vicinity. You can enjoy a little historical trip within walking distance.


Rating of access

1.0 pt(from Shinjuku)

1.5 pt(from Nagoya)

→ How to rate access

Area / Railway

Koshinetsu Region
Nagano Pref.

JR Chuo Line


Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta.Keio: 1 hr Keio Line ¥ 370
  • Takao Sta.JR: 3 hrs 10 min Chuo Line ¥ 2,640
  • Shimosuwa Sta.Walk: 13 min 1 km (0.6 mi) Max difference in elevation: 22 m (72 ft)
  • Tanganoyu
Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta.JR: 4 hrs 05 min Chuo Line ¥ 3,740
  • Shimosuwa Sta. Loop-line Bus Azami-go: 4 min Hagikura Hoshigaoka Line (Going to Machiyashiki first) ¥ 150
  • Yudasakaue Bus StopWalk: 1 min 0.1 km (0.1 mi)
  • Tanganoyu
Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta.JR express: 2 hrs 30 min Azusa etc. Reserved seat¥ 5,980
  • Shimosuwa Sta. Loop-line Bus Azami-go: 10 min Takagi Takahama Line (CW) ¥ 150
  • Suwa Taisha Akimiya-mae Bus StopWalk: 4 min 0.3 km (0.2 mi) Difference in elevation: -7 m (-23 ft)
  • Tanganoyu
Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta. (New South Gate) Walk: 2 min
  • Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal (4th floor) Expressway bus: 3 hrs 13 - 25 min Suwa Okaya Line ¥ 3,500
  • Shimosuwa Sta.Walk: 4 min 0.3 km (0.2 mi)
  • Tomonomachi Parking Lot Bicycle rental: 5 min ¥ 100 for 1 hr
    0.8 km (0.5 mi)
  • Tanganoyu
Route from Nagoya
  • Nagoya Sta.JR: 3 hrs 40 min Chuo-nishi Line ¥ 3,410
  • Shimosuwa Sta.(The rest is the same as above)
Route from Nagoya
  • Nagoya Sta.JR express: 2 hrs Shinano etc. Non-reserved seat¥ 5,610
  • Shiojiri Sta.JR: 20 min Chuo Line ¥ -
  • Shimosuwa Sta.(The rest is the same as above)
Route from Nagoya
  • Nagoya Sta.Walk: 5 min
  • Meitetsu Bus Center (3rd floor) Expressway bus: 2 hrs 55 min Matsumoto Nagano Line ¥ 2,800 - ¥ 3,800
  • Naganodo Okaya Bus StopWalk: 35 min 2.6 km (1.6 mi)
  • Arayashiki Bus StopSWAN Bus: 28 min Soto-mawari Line ¥ 150
  • Taishadori Yotsukado Bus StopWalk: 10 min 0.8 km (0.5 mi) Max difference in elevation: 20 m (66 ft)
  • Tanganoyu
Routes from Tokyo
  • Shinjuku
  • Keio
  • Takao
  • JR
  • Shimosuwa
  • Walk
  • hot spring
  • 4 hrs 23 min ¥ 3,010

  • Shinjuku
  • JR
  • Shimosuwa
  • Bus
  • hot spring
  • 4 hrs 10 min ¥ 3,890

  • Shinjuku
  • JR express
  • Shimosuwa
  • Bus
  • hot spring
  • 2 hrs 44 min ¥ 6,130

  • Shinjuku
  • Expressway bus
  • Shimosuwa
  • Bicycle rental
  • hot spring
  • 3 hrs 24 - 36 min ¥ 3,600

Routes from Nagoya
  • Nagoya
  • JR
  • Shimosuwa
  • (The rest is the same as above)
  • 3 hrs 40 min+ ¥ 3,410+

  • Nagoya
  • JR express
  • Shiojiri
  • JR
  • Shimosuwa
  • (The rest is the same as above)
  • 2 hrs 20 min+ ¥ 5,610+

  • Nagoya
  • Expressway bus
  • Naganodo Okaya
  • Walk
  • Arayashiki
  • Bus
  • Taishadori Yotsukado
  • Walk
  • hot spring
  • 4 hrs 13 min ¥ 2,950 - ¥ 3,950

  • The price of JR Express is "Base fare" plus "Express charge". (These are determined according to the distance.) In case of JR Express on Chuo Line, "Express charge" has two types: "Reserved seat" and "Undecided seat". Both have the same charge, which do not change depending on the season. However, the price will vary depending on where you buy. (Internet < Station < Inside the car). If you have an "Undecided seat" ticket, you can sit in any vacant seat, but you have no priority. So, if someone comes who has a "Reserved seat" ticket for the seat you are sitting, you have to give up the seat to him / her.
  • Other JR Express than the above, "Express charge" has two types: Reserved seat and Non-reserved seat. Reserved seat charge adds ¥930 (during the busiest season), ¥730 (during the busy season), ¥530 (during the normal season) or ¥330 (during the off season) to Non-reserved seat charge. (For details, please refer to JR East_Ticketing and Busiest / Busy / Normal / Off season calendar.)
  • Loop-line Bus Azami-go and SWAN Bus sell one-day unlimited ride ticket (¥300 for adults) on the bus.
  • The rental bicycles at the Tomonomachi parking lot are equipped with an electric assist, and identification is required. From March to October, reception hours are from 9:00 to 16:00 (return until 17:00). From November to February, reception hours are from 9:00 to 15:30 (return until 16:30). It is 100 yen per hour (500 yen for E-BIKE). For reservations and inquiries, call 0266-27-0005 or 0266-27-1111. In addition, also "Shimosuwa Konjakukan Oideya" has a similar bicycle rental service. For reservations and inquiries, call 0266-27-0001.
  • The above fares are based on cash. When using an IC card, the fares may differ slightly.
  • The above times and distances are approximate. Does not include transfering or waiting times.

How to get to Tanganoyu

(Directions from Shimosuwa Sta.)
  1. Go straight north from the station.
  2. Turn right at the T-junction.
  3. Turn left in front of Suwa Taisha Akimiya and enter the old Nakasendo road.
  4. On the way straight down the steep downhill

bus stop: bus stop

Click the map to open Google Map

Travel journal of day trip bathing to hot spring


He is an orthodox hot springs lover and particular about quality of springs. He loves the hot springs flowing from the source, the hot water with a presence, and the rustic atmosphere.
He doesn't care much about quality of hot springs. He loves the open-air bath, and prefers hot springs that have visible features such as good views.

One day in December.

it's so cold that I want to go to a hot spring that warms me up well.

Hmmm, a well-warmed hot spring ... Then, what about Suwa? We've been there before, but we couldn't go all bathhouses at that time.

Ah, Suwa ... Well, sure, it was a nice place ...

So, Nishi-san and Kita-san who revisited Suwa. First, head to the popular bathhouse "Tanganoyu". From Nakasendo, go through Mitamachi Street and go up Emonzaka road.

Gutter on Emonzaka road, Shimosuwa Onsen

Gutter on Emonzaka road

Hey! Look! Steam is coming out of the gutter! It feels like SO hot spring town, you know.

There's hot water flowing in the gutter, too. In short, it means that there is a lot of hot water. It's a luxury, isn't it?

And because the air temperature is low, I can see the steam even more clearly.

It's only in winter.

Walking Yudasaka road from Emonzaka road, Tanganoyu is located on the way of downhill.

Tanganoyu exterior, Shimosuwa Onsen


Oh, this is it. It looks beautiful, surprisingly.

I've heard it's been renewed recently. It looks good on Suwa, too.

Tanganoyu shoes box, Shimosuwa onsen

Shoes box

Oh, the inside is bright, and it feels good to be neat, right?


In the bathing room, there is a bathtub in front and a washing area on the right. There is an open-air bath when you go outside from the left. The indoor bath is divided into two tubs.

Tanganoyu indoor bath, Shimosuwa Onsen

Indoor bath

Um ... Well ... The sign says this tub is "Slightly hot water". And the other is ... "Hot water" ...

In short, both are hot.

First of all, Nishi-san and Kita-san enter the "slightly hot" tub.

's hot! Is this "SLIGHTLY" hot!? It's SO hot! I can't be soaked in it ...

Oh, sure, it's pretty hot. Perhaps because my body is cold, I feel even hoter.

It's amazing that you can be soaked in such hot water.

Well, it's certainly hot, but there's nothing you can't put in. You may not be able to afford to taste the goodness of the hot water, though.

... So? Yes, ok, getting in slowly from my toe,and then ... It's hot! I'll give up!

Hey, it's less than 5 seconds. It's a pretty good hot water, when you get used to the temperature.

No, no, I'll be scalded before I get used to it ...

Then, let's go to the open-air bath. The open-air bath seems to be relatively low temperature.

Tanganoyu was renewed in December 2012.

They go to the open-air bath without entering "hot" tub.

Tanganoyu open-air bath, Shimosuwa Onsen

Open-air bath

Oh, I can get in this.

Compared to the indoor bath, this one is right temperature.

But, even if you say an open-air bath, you can't see the scenery at all ... There is a roof and I can't see the sky. It's not an open-air bath, you know.

Well, You can say that again. It's just that the outside air comes in.

Tanganoyu hot water spout in the open-air bath, Shimosuwa Onsen

Hot water spout in the open-air bath

This water doesn't have much of a feature, does it?

Well, sure, it's colorless and transparent. I wonder if there's a little sulfur smell. But Suwa Onsen has been said to be a famous hot spring for a long time.

Hmmm, famous hot spring ... I don't think it's such a great hot water ...

I guess it's gentle hot water for everyone.

Gentle? This TOO HOT water is not gentle at all, you know.

Hahaha, you can say so.

Suwa Taisha Akimiya worship hall

Suwa Taisha Akimiya worship hall

Nishi-san and Kita-san, who came out of Tanganoyu, are taking a walk around Suwa Taisha Akimiya.

It feels like the warmth of the core of the body continues. Shimosuwa Onsen is a hot spring that warms up as you requested.

Well ... But even so, it was too hot ...

Nishi-san and Kita-san, who went around Suwa Taisha Akimiya, are going to the next bathhouse after lunch and coffee break. (→ Continue to Yusen House Koyu)

(December 2019)

The temperature of each bathtub:
Slightly hot water 44 ℃ (111 ℉)
Hot water 47 ℃ (117 ℉)
Open-air bath about 42 ℃ (108 ℉)
However, I feel that "slightly hot water" was over 44 ℃ (111 ℉) ...

Impression & rating

The hot water is fresh and you can feel the goodness of the water. It's the bathhouse which many locals visit and has a good atmosphere.

2.5 pt

Impression & rating

The indoor bath is so hot that you can hardly soak in it. You can't see the scenery in the open-air bath, and it's not interesting.

1.0 pt

→ How to rate

The Onsen facility

3441, Yudamachi, Shimosuwa Town, Suwa District, Nagano Pref.
domestic: 0266-26-7520
international: +81-266-26-7520
Tanganoyu (Shimosuwa Tourism Association)
Bathing hours
5:30 - 22:00
(Last entry at 21:30)
Open at 14:00 on Thursdays
Regular holiday
Open all year round
Adults: ¥ 240 / Elementary school students and under: ¥ 120
Gender-separated indoor bath, Gender-separated semi-open-air bath
There is a shoes box (required 100 yen coin, return type)
There is a locker at the undressing room (required 100 yen coin, charged)
No soap, shampoo etc.

The hot spring data
(According to hot spring analysis report etc.)

(Survey date: Jun. 25, 2009)

Spring quality
Sodium / Calcium - Sulfate / Chloride spring (Hypotonic Alkaline High temperature spring)
Mixed spring
(Tanga No.1 source: 60 L, Tanga No.2 source: 380 L)
Spring out spot
3442-1, chargedShimosuwa Town, Suwa District, Nagano Pref.
56.0 ℃ (132.8 ℉)
[air temperature: 34 ℃ (93.2 ℉)]
pH value
Total ingredients
1.1579 g / kg
Almost colorless and clear, with bitterness, saltiness, and slight hydrogen sulfide odor.

Today's Ekiben

Marumasa's Seasonal scent Charcoal-grilled beef bento
The appearance of Marumasa's Seasonal scent Charcoal-grilled beef bento The whole of Marumasa's Seasonal scent Charcoal-grilled beef bento

Seasonal scent Charcoal-grilled beef bento

(Purchased at MASAICHI in Kobuchizawa Station)

The autumn version of charcoal-grilled Shinshu beef bento, which Marumasa is good at. They express autumn with matsutake mushrooms and chestnuts. However, the autumn feeling is thinner than expected, and I feel that it is not much different from the usual grilled beef bento. It is delicious enough, though. (¥ 1,100) (→ Marumasa website)

  • The descriptions on this page contain personal opinions and are not necessarily objective facts.
  • The information may have changed at present. In particular, the charge and price etc. has often not updated from the time of travel, so check the latest information on the official website.

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