Day trip bathing travel journals to hot springs where we visited by train and bus

Shimosuwa Onsen Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu

Shimosuwa Onsen Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu

7083, Yashiro, Shimosuwa Town, Suwa District, Nagano Pref.

Color is orange, taste is lemon. If you soak in "Deity's hot water" that has a rare spring quality and excellent presence, you may attract good fortune!?

Shimosuwa Onsen Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu bathtub
Shimosuwa Onsen Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu bathtub Shimosuwa Onsen Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu bathing room Shimosuwa Onsen Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu exterior

The dark orange cloudy water has sourness like lemon, and the presence of the hot water is outstanding. A rare onsen in terms of spring quality. Many people are addicted to "hot and cold baths", which alternate between a cold source bath and a warm heating bath.

Dokusawa-kosen is a historical onsen that has long been known. Also, it is said that TAKEDA Shingen named it "Dokusawa" (means "brook of poison") to hide its efficacy from his enemies in the Warring States period.

An inn in a quiet mountain, behind Suwa Taisha Harumiya. While Suwa sightseeing, you should definitely drop in.


Rating of access

0.0 pt(from Shinjuku)

0.5 pt(from Nagoya)

→ How to rate access

Area / Railway

Koshinetsu Region
Nagano Pref.

JR Chuo Line


Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta.Keio: 1 hr Keio Line ¥ 370
  • Takao Sta.JR: 3 hrs 10 min Chuo Line ¥ 2,640
  • Shimosuwa Sta.Walk: 46 min 3.1 km (1.9 mi) Difference in elevation: 140 m (459 ft)
  • Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu
Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta.JR: 4 hrs 05 min Chuo Line ¥ 3,740
  • Shimosuwa Sta. Loop-line Bus Azami-go: 11 min Hagikura Hoshigaoka Line (Going to Hoshigaoka first) ¥ 150
  • Hoshigaoka-kami Bus StopWalk: 10 min 0.6 km (0.4 mi) Difference in elevation: 43 m (141 ft)
  • Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu
Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta.JR express: 2 hrs 20 min Azusa etc. Reserved seat¥ 5,980
  • Kamisuwa Sta.JR: 5 min Chuo Line ¥ -
  • Shimosuwa Sta. Loop-line Bus Azami-go: 7 min Hagikura Hoshigaoka Line (Going to Machiyashiki first) ¥ 150
  • Shimekake (-minami) Bus StopWalk: 16 min 1 km (0.6 mi) Difference in elevation: 85 m (279 ft)
  • Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu
Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta.JR express: 2 hrs 30 min Azusa etc. Reserved seat¥ 5,980
  • Shimosuwa Sta. Loop-line Bus Azami-go: 8 min Akasuna Higashiyamada Line Hidari-mawari (CCW) ¥ 150
  • Manji-no-Sekibutsu Bus StopWalk: 26 min 1.7 km (1.1 mi) Difference in elevation: 125 m (410 ft)
  • Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu
Route from Tokyo (Shinjuku)
  • Shinjuku Sta. (New South Gate) Walk: 2 min
  • Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal (4th floor) Expressway bus: 3 hrs 13 - 25 min Suwa Okaya Line ¥ 3,500
  • Shimosuwa Sta.Walk: 4 min 0.3 km (0.2 mi)
  • Tomonomachi Parking Lot Bicycle rental: 30 min ¥ 100 for 1 hr
    2.8 km (1.7 mi)
  • Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu
Route from Nagoya
  • Nagoya Sta.JR: 3 hrs 40 min Chuo-nishi Line ¥ 3,410
  • Shimosuwa Sta.(The rest is the same as above)
Route from Nagoya
  • Nagoya Sta.JR express: 2 hrs Shinano etc. Non-reserved seat¥ 5,610
  • Shiojiri Sta.JR: 20 min Chuo Line ¥ -
  • Shimosuwa Sta.(The rest is the same as above)
Route from Nagoya
  • Nagoya Sta.Walk: 5 min
  • Meitetsu Bus Center (3rd floor) Expressway bus: 2 hrs 55 min Matsumoto Nagano Line ¥ 2,800 - ¥ 3,800
  • Naganodo Okaya Bus StopWalk: 35 min 2.6 km (1.6 mi)
  • Arayashiki Bus StopSWAN Bus: 27 min Soto-mawari Line ¥ 150
  • Harumiyadaimon-minami Bus StopWalk: 40 min 2.6 km (1.6 mi) Difference in elevation: 140 m (459 ft)
  • Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu
Routes from Tokyo
  • Shinjuku
  • Keio
  • Takao
  • JR
  • Shimosuwa
  • Walk
  • hot spring
  • 4 hrs 56 min ¥ 3,010

  • Shinjuku
  • JR
  • Shimosuwa
  • Bus
  • hot spring
  • 4 hrs 26 min ¥ 3,890

  • Shinjuku
  • JR express - JR
  • Shimosuwa
  • Bus
  • hot spring
  • 2 hrs 48 min ¥ 6,130

  • Shinjuku
  • JR express
  • Shimosuwa
  • Bus
  • hot spring
  • 3 hrs 04 min ¥ 6,130

  • Shinjuku
  • Expressway bus
  • Shimosuwa
  • Bicycle rental
  • hot spring
  • 3 hrs 49 min - 4 hrs 01 min ¥ 3,600+

Routes from Nagoya
  • Nagoya
  • JR
  • Shimosuwa
  • (The rest is the same as above)
  • 3 hrs 40 min+ ¥ 3,410+

  • Nagoya
  • JR express
  • Shiojiri
  • JR
  • Shimosuwa
  • (The rest is the same as above)
  • 2 hrs 20 min+ ¥ 5,610+

  • Nagoya
  • Expressway bus
  • Naganodo Okaya
  • Walk
  • Arayashiki
  • Bus
  • Harumiyadaimon-minami
  • Walk
  • hot spring
  • 4 hrs 42 min ¥ 2,950 - ¥ 3,950

  • The price of JR Express is "Base fare" plus "Express charge". (These are determined according to the distance.) In case of JR Express on Chuo Line, "Express charge" has two types: "Reserved seat" and "Undecided seat". Both have the same charge, which do not change depending on the season. However, the price will vary depending on where you buy. (Internet < Station < Inside the car). If you have an "Undecided seat" ticket, you can sit in any vacant seat, but you have no priority. So, if someone comes who has a "Reserved seat" ticket for the seat you are sitting, you have to give up the seat to him / her.
  • Other JR Express than the above, "Express charge" has two types: Reserved seat and Non-reserved seat. Reserved seat charge adds ¥930 (during the busiest season), ¥730 (during the busy season), ¥530 (during the normal season) or ¥330 (during the off season) to Non-reserved seat charge. (For details, please refer to JR East_Ticketing and Busiest / Busy / Normal / Off season calendar.)
  • Loop-line Bus Azami-go and SWAN Bus sell one-day unlimited ride ticket (¥300 for adults) on the bus.
  • There are three bus stops called "Shimekake", each located about 40 - 50 m (131 - 164 ft) far away. On the timetable, it is written as Shimekake-nishi (west), Shimekake-kita (north) and Shimekake-minami (south), and the bus will stop at one of them depending on the direction. However, the bus stop sign at the actual place, all three are just only "Shimekake". (Because "nishi" (west) / "kita" (north) / "minami" (south) is not shown, it's hard to understand.) When you use Shimekake Bus Stop, you need to be careful not to wait at the wrong one. (If you are going to Shimosuwa Station from Shimekake, get on from Shimekake-kita (north) Bus Stop.)
  • The rental bicycles at the Tomonomachi parking lot are equipped with an electric assist, and identification is required. From March to October, reception hours are from 9:00 to 16:00 (return until 17:00). From November to February, reception hours are from 9:00 to 15:30 (return until 16:30). It is 100 yen per hour (500 yen for E-BIKE). For reservations and inquiries, call 0266-27-0005 or 0266-27-1111. In addition, also "Shimosuwa Konjakukan Oideya" has a similar bicycle rental service. For reservations and inquiries, call 0266-27-0001.
  • The above fares are based on cash. When using an IC card, the fares may differ slightly.
  • The above times and distances are approximate. Does not include transfering or waiting times.

How to get to Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu

(from Shimosuwa Sta. to the uphill on the side of Manjino-sekibutsu Bus Stop)
  1. Go straight north from the station. Turn left at the T-junction
  2. Turn right at the Harumiyadaimon intersection (pass through the big shrine gate)
  3. Turn left in front of the shrine gate at the entrance to Suwa Taisha Harumiya
  4. Follow the road, cross the bridge, and immediately go up the steep hill on the right

bus stop: bus stop

Click the map to open Google Map

(Directions from the uphill on the side of Manjino-sekibutsu Bus Stop)
  1. After turning left, turn right immediately
  2. Go straight along the road and go up the hill

bus stop: bus stop

Click the map to open Google Map

Travel journal of day trip bathing to hot spring


He is an orthodox hot springs lover and particular about quality of springs. He loves the hot springs flowing from the source, the hot water with a presence, and the rustic atmosphere.
He doesn't care much about quality of hot springs. He loves the open-air bath, and prefers hot springs that have visible features such as good views.

In March, when it's still shallow in spring. Today's hot spring trip is in the Suwa area, at the Suwa Taisha's home territory. Nishi-san and Kita-san who got off the train at Shimosuwa Station, first glanced at Suwa Taisha Harumiya and then headed to "Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu". But before that, there is no way to overlook the "Manji-no-Sekibutsu" (it means "Stone Buddha of Manji era").



  Oh ...

... How amazing ...

Yeah ... I thought it looked humorous in the photos, but the real thing is so impressive ...

If this was in ONE PIECE, It would definitely come up the "DON!" at the behind.


Oh, in a good sense, of course.

Nishi-san and Kita-san heads for Kaminoyu after making three rounds around the Stone Buddha just in case. They've arrived after walking on a steep uphill or a gentle uphill.

Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu exterior, Shimosuwa Onsen


In short, it's always going uphill.

Oh, we've finally arrived ... Kaminoyu is this ...

Hmm, These are komainu? Why here?

Gee, it has a suspicious atmosphere ...

Nishi-san and Kita-san step into the building. There is an antique wood-burning stove in the corner of the lobby just near the entrance. In the back of lobby, the facility enshrine the Seven Deities of Good Fortune and the Yakushi Nyorai statue.

It is said that Manji-no-Sekibutsu became famous after OKAMOTO Taro praised it. It seems that he said "I've been walking around the world, but never seen such an interesting thing." As a worship method, they are recommending that you make three clockwise turns with your hope in mind.

"ONE PIECE" is a popular manga written by ODA Eiichiro.

Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu stove in lobby, Shimosuwa Onsen

Stove in lobby

It's a solemn sense ...

It's a bit dim ... Oh, there's an altar. Because called "Deity's hot water", so they enshrine the Deities.

Feels like having come a temple or shrine rather than a hot spring.

Oh, you can say that again!

The bath building is located at the end of the connecting corridor from the main building.

According to Kaminoyu website, many customers stayed and had a mysterious experience. Suwa is originally a land close to deities, so that may be the case.

Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu Bath building seen from the connecting corridor, Shimosuwa Onsen

Bath building seen from the connecting corridor

The bathing room is simple with only indoor bath. There is a large bathtub, a small bathtub, and a drinkable onsen source.

Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu Large bathtub, Shimosuwa Onsen

Large bathtub (heated)

Wow! What a dark color!

You're right! What to say, looks like great water.

The two get into the large bathtub at once. This is a heated bathtub.

Yeah, good hot water.

Hmm, the smell is like a combination of sulfur odor and iron rust odor. Kind of, unique ...

And this dark cloudy water is so hot spring. It's nice, you know.

That's about it. ... And, this small bathtub is ... cold! Ah, it's an unheated source.

Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu Small bathtub, Shimosuwa Onsen

Small bathtub (non-heated source)

Cold it is ... How? Can you get in?

If I make an effort, there is nothing I cannot ... No! It's impossible! Too cold!

That's a shame ... Oh,you can drink onsen water.

Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu drinkable onsen, Shimosuwa Onsen

Drinkable onsen

Good. Well, ...Hmm, pretty sour.

Wow, really! Lemon flavor?

In short, it's acidic. I think the source has high quality, but it's so cold to get in ... On the one hand, the heated one feels a bit dull ...

Is that so? ... Be that as it may, let's open the window. ... Yeah, fresh forest air! It's a bit like an open-air bath, you know.

Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu flying squirrel's house, Shimosuwa Onsen

Flying squirrel's house

Nishi-san and Kita-san have spent their time slowly, such as soaking in the bathtub, cooling off on the veranda and observing a flying squirrel's house. After the bath, relaxing in the break room.

Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu break room, Shimosuwa Onsen

Break room

Phew, I'm getting tired.

Right. After all, the water has the power, doesn't it?

Hmmm, I'm not sure. But I'm a bit disappointed that I couldn't get in the non-heated source bathtub ... I could get in if it was a hot season like summer.

Nishi-san and Kita-san, who have neither inspiration nor religious devotion. Probably they will not attract good fortune, but experienced rare hot water at Kaminoyu anyway.

(March 2019)

There is a temple in the farther behind of the bath building. It seems to be the right bathing method to visit the temple before taking a bath.

Impression & rating

The source has high quality, but the heated tub feels that its characteristic has been weaker. A good hot spring for those who like a cold water bath.

2.5 pt

Impression & rating

The dark orange cloudy water is so hot spring, and also its environment is good. But, the facility is dim, and the atmosphere isn't so good.

2.0 pt

→ How to rate

The Onsen facility

7083, Yashiro, Shimosuwa Town, Suwa District, Nagano Pref.
domestic: 0266-27-5526
international: +81-266-27-5526
Web Site
Dokusawa-kosen Kaminoyu
Day trip bathing hours
10:00 - 21:00
[Saturdays, Sundays, holidays and the day before holidays]
10:00 - 15:00
Regular holiday
Irregular holidays (Check by phone)
¥ 800
Gender-separated indoor bath
No lockers at the undressing room (Valuables lockers (FOC) in the corridor)

The hot spring data
(According to hot spring analysis report etc.)

(Analysis date: Jan. 5, 1998)

Spring quality
Iron (Ⅱ) containing - Aluminum - Sulfate spring (Hypotonic Acidic Cold mineral spring)
7083, Yashiro, Shimosuwa Town, Suwa District, Nagano Pref.
2.0 ℃ (35.6 ℉)
[air temperature: 2 ℃ (35.6 ℉)]
No description

According to the website of "HITOU - Japan Association of Secluded Hot Spring Inns", the spring volume is 7.5 L / min

pH value
Total ingredients
[Sum of positive and negative ions]
1.5092 g / kg

Today's Detour

Fushimiya-Tei exterior
Fushimiya-Tei irori fireplace


Fushimiya-Tei is an old wooden two-storeyed house. It's located along the old Nakasendo, almost halfway between Suwa Taisha Harumiya and Akimiya. It's estimated to have been built in 1864, when is the end of the Edo period. Locals have restored this historical building, and opened free of charge as a rest stop for tourists and a place for residents to interact.

You may hesitate to get in, but open the old wooden door and locals will welcome you. It'll be an interesting experience to have a small talk while sipping tea and to see old photos.

[Opening hours] 9:00 - 17:00 (Last entry is 16:30)
[Closed] Monday, the day after national holidays, from Dec. 28 to Jan. 4
(→ Shimosuwa Tourism Association website _ Fushimiya-Tei)

  • The descriptions on this page contain personal opinions and are not necessarily objective facts.
  • The information may have changed at present. In particular, the charge and price etc. has often not updated from the time of travel, so check the latest information on the official website.

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